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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.